St Enodoc Church hunkers down in the sand dunes at Trebetherwick, surrounded by a golf course. It’s not the usual spot for a place of worship, and the building itself is also a curiousity. This unusual spot might be reason enough to visit. However it also happens to be where you’ll find Sir John Betjeman’s grave.
The church in the dunes
Tall, dense evergreen hedges surround the church, so you can only spot it’s rather wonky looking tower from afar. According to legend, Enodoc the Hermit lived in a cave where the church was built. The oldest part of the church dates from the twelfth century. But really there’s not much about who Enodoc actually was, or even if they existed at all.
Sand virtually buried the church was virtually from the sixteenth to the middle of the nineteenth century. The vicar and parishioners entered through a hole in the roof, until it was properly unearthed in 1864.
You can find Sir John Betjemen immediately to the right after you enter through the gate. Swirling script ornately inscribes his black gravestone.
From “Prig” to Poet Laureate
Betjemen had a long and varied career. He started at Oxford, leanring English under C.S. Lewis – who unfortunately thought he was an “idle prig”. Betjemen was not fond of his tutor either, nor of the course at Oxford and failed miserably, although this didn’t seem to have a lasting impact on his career. He went on to publish many poetry collections, guidebooks and books about architecture. In the 1970s he went into broadcasting. Betjemen became Poet Laureate in 1972, a position he retained until his death. This role combined with his popularity on TV meant his poetry became and continues to be very popular.
The writer had a long connection with Cornwall, having holidayed at Trebetherick as a child. In 1959 he bought a home overlooking the 12th hole of the golf course. He’s connected to St Enodoc not only as his final resting place but also via a poem he wrote about the church:
Then the cool silence of St Enodoc,
Her spire bent like a crooked witch’s hat,
A grave, a stile, a dandelion clock
Then the cool silence of St Enodoc
A clergyman attends his little flock:
“Sunday Afternoon Service in St. Enodoc Church, Cornwall”
Even if you’re not remotely interested in Betjemen, St Enodoc Church is a lovely place to visit, especially as a stop off on a walk. What do you think? Please share in the comments.
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